At the service panel the circuit is controlled by a joined pair of 15A breakers. I assume the white and black are separate 15A lines and the red is a common neutral?
From The complete guide to home wiring. The first problem is that you may be using the wrong cable and breakers. NEC calls for 2 20Amp small appliance circuits in the kitchen, to accomplish this you'll need to switch to 20Amp breakers and 12 wire. You'll have to pull new wire anyway, if you want to hook up GFCI receptacles. GFCI receptacles will not work properly with a shared neutral, you'll end up with nuisance tripping with a shared neutral.
Then install 2 20Amp breakers, to supply the kitchen. You'll install the GFCI's as the first receptacle on each circuit, which will protect all downstream receptacles.
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Sherman if you're talking about stores like Home Depot and Lowes, you have to remember 1 they are not electrical supply companies, and 2 code does not say stores can't sell non-TR receptacles. Don't remove the warning tape from the LOAD terminals. More common would be two single pole GFI breakers in the panel.
I assume this is because they are wired in series. Just leave the red wire alone. It could be right or wrong but if everything works dont worry about it.
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Why do they do this.
Code does not specifically require everything downstream of an installed GFCI outlet to be protected by that GFCI outlet, and so technically, bypassing protection is allowed.
Thanks for the info. The other end of the trip coil connects to the earth rod. I suspected that the immersion heater element had also corroded and was now pumping current into the hot water system. Without using the red wire you can use the diagram you provided. Is it possible to wire these two outlets in parallel so that when the "upstream" outlet trips, it won't cut off power to the "downstream" outlet?
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